Snapshots

Grigoriev Lake - a small alpine lake in the mountains just north of Lake Issyk-Kyl. A largely mountainous country (I've seen numbers ranging from 75% to 90%), Kyrgyzstan boasts all sorts of different high-altitude scenery, the above area looking much like the Rocky Mountains. Here, we met a Kyrgyz man riding his horse through the small valley surrounding the lake. There are many horse, sheep and cow herds grazing on the mountain pastures, invariably watched and guided by mounted Kyrgyz men and boys, some looking no older than 6 or 7 years old. Many of these people still live a (semi-)nomadic lifestyle, although there are smaller permanent houses scattered throughout the mountains.

A cluster of yurts near the shore of Son-Kul Lake. At 3016 m above sea level, the air remains crisp, clear and cool even in the hight of summer. The lake's breathtaking beauty has been preserved through the creation of a natural park focused on Lake Son-Kul. Here, people still live a completely nomadic life, relying on their horse herds for their livelihood, although they supplement that income by accommodating tourists overnight. When the horses have exhausted the local pastures, they simply take down their yurts and set them up again a few kilometres away. Much like the tepees of the nomadic Native Americans, yurts are constructed by stretching animal hides over a collapsible wooden structure. They insulate heat well, are extremely durable and take little time to set up or take down.

Not all mountains look alike, and that quickly becomes obvious in Kyrgyzstan. Remnants of the glacier that most likely shaped these mountains still line the mountain road at an altitude approaching 3300 m above sea level. While settlements are sparse, there are still villages scattered all over the countryside, as evidenced by the telephone and electrical cables. People living in these villages mostly earn their living from traditional sources, as described earlier, but the service industry - teachers, mechanics and workers in the restaurant and hotel industries - plays an important role too.

Lake Issyk-Kul near Tamga. More rugged and less developed than the northern shore, Issyk-Kul's south attracts those who love the outdoors: hiking, horse-back riding, camping, picnics on the beach - it's all there. Exploring all the major sights of Issyk-Kul's south shore, such as Fairtale Canyon, below, can take 2 or 3 days. For the hardcore trekker, just this small part of Kyrgyzstan can provide a week of bliss (and blisters, if you're like me and didn't know that your shoes aren't suited for hiking in the mountains).  

Fairytale Canyon, south shore, Issyk-Kul. This semi-circular wall of jagged rocks (a castle wall? a dragon's teeth?) is one of the fantastic formations that give Fairytale Canyon its name. Perhaps an hour's hike all together, a tour through Fairytale Canyon is definitely worth the while. Hidden away at the bottom of one of the little valleys (out of frame) is the wishing stone - touch your hand to it, and make your wish. It's guaranteed to come true! (But only, I was cautioned, if you really really believe in it.)  

Lake Issyk-Kul from a different angle: north shore, Cholpon-Ata. The resort town of Cholpon-Ata can in some ways rival North American standards such as Mexico and Hawaii. Of course, the season is much shorter: for those used to cooler ocean water, it might run May through August, but it is only really busy in July and August. There is less water sport, but the fishing is supposed to be excellent. The entire package is, of course, wrapped in mountains; it's not too often that you can relax on the beach while gazing across the clear blue water at snow-capped mountains fading into the horizon.

A small wooden fishing boat pulled up on the beach near Cholpon-Ata. Fishing is a primary source of food and relaxation around Lake Issyk-Kul. In particular along the north shore, you will encounter road-side stands offering bundles of freshly-caught or smoked fish and cafés specializing in local fish, primarily fried.